Is there any efficient way to add space before the start of a hairpin when it follows a dynamic marking on a note? So the dynamic and hairpin don't overlap.
I saw an older thread with some workarounds on this, but it required setting a vertical offset on some rests to be essentially off the page (offset 2000) and it does not appear the software supports that any more.
I'm not seeing any font that allows me to input [quarter note]=[half note]. I see the quarter note and half note symbols in several fonts, but these fonts seem to lack an "=" symbol.
For the time being, I removed all the accents and set my default volumes on the staff properties to 30-40-50-60-70-80-90-100. It gives a good balanced range but doesn't solve the accent problem.
A couple subjects all smashed into one post. I'm using my keyboard (Yamaha DGX-660) as my playback device for some music during my choir rehearsals. I've entered all of the piano music as the sheet music calls for, using dynamics, accents, etc.
My issue is that accented notes are played WAY too loudly across my keyboard's speakers, while the volume of the actual dynamics seems fine. The accented notes are loud enough to make my speakers rattle while the non-accented notes sound fine.
I see controls on the staff properties for setting the velocity for each written dynamic, and I've read that NWC uses a multiplier of 1.4 for accented notes.
Is there a way to change this multiplier to 1.2? 40% is far too much accent.
I do not notice the accented notes nearly as badly when played through my laptop's speakers. So I'm not sure if this is partially an issue with how my keyboard is translating the MIDI instructions, of if this is an issue with NWC's MIDI code. Perhaps there is a setting I should be looking for on my keyboard for equalization?
Any recommendations that don't involve a lot of manual dynamic adjustment will be very welcome here. In the meantime, I'm debating on removing all accents, but it would be nice to have them as the music intends.
Has anybody else experienced their computer freezing during song playback? It's happened a couple times to me now. The speakers start buzzing a loud drone noise and the only way to get out is to hard reset the computer. This is in a Galaxy book 12 running Windows 10. Drivers are up to date.
Fortunately it appears that nwc has some restore functionality finally.
Is it possible to make the toolbars bigger? My system is set up at 150% scaling, which works great for most programs...but I need NWC to scale to 200% to really make the toolbars big enough that I can see them clearly. I don't see a way to do this in either Windows 10 or in NWC. Any ideas?
I have NWC installed on my Microsoft Surface Pro (original model) running Windows 10 Pro. On the keyboard touchpad, I can scroll vertically with a two-finger gesture, but not horizontally. However, I can do two-finger scrolling on the touch screen in both directions (and this is much more convenient than the touchpad). Have you tried the two-finger gestures on your Galaxy Book's screen?
Looks like scrolling works on the screen. Hadn't thought of that. Odd that the touchpad doesn't work though. I'm going to have to get used to this quirk, unless NWC tech support can figure it out
Not sure if tech support visits these forums or if I need to email somebody else, but I've got an issue.
I've upgraded my computer to a 2-in-1 tablet PC and I have just started using NWC on it and noticed one major problem - in the music editing environment, I cannot use my touchpad to scroll through the music (two-finger scrolling), forcing me to use left and right arrows or the scroll bar across the bottom to move. This issue is unique to NWC as every other program I've tested seems to be scrolling properly. My drivers are all up to date as well.
For the technical side, I'm on a Samsung Galaxy Book 12 (model SM-W720NTKBXAR). It has a keyboard cover case with a touchpad. I'm running Windows 10 Home (build 17134) and NWC version 2.75.a.2 (which I believe may be a newer version than I had on my old PC, so that's possibly a problem?)
Is there any way to make custom toolbar buttons? There are several features that could be a lot more efficient to not have to click through a dropdown menu...
no no no...Eb horns should be -9, not +3. You'll end up having the horns playing higher than the trumpets if you make that mistake. An Eb trumpet or cornet would be +3.
Otherwise, you are on track. The accidentals should be enough to get everything right if you transpose it later, but if you do decide to add a key signature later, you should always do a FORCE ACCIDENTALS, then add key signature, then AUDIT ACCIDENTALS (sometimes you also need to follow that with AUDIT ENHARMONIC SPELLING to get the correct accidentals for the key)
I am notating an orchestral piece that has Horns in E.
A number of the notes have a + above them. I understand that this means to "stop" the horn by placing the hand in the Bell of the instrument which then lowers the pitch. However, some references say that it lowers the pitch and then when that hand is tight in, the pitch then rises by half a step and so the player should play a half step lower.
Other references tell me that when you do this, the pitch falls to half a step above the next lower partial harmonic.
To be fair, I don't know about this - and don't need to know. All I want to know is that for a series of notes in the score, what notes to I have to pitch bend to given the following notes on the score : D, F and A
Grateful for any help.
I know this post is a couple of months old - but as a horn player, I'd like to chip in my two cents. Generally, when you see the "+" sign in horn music, you take your right hand and shove it as far into the bell as possible, with your fingers at about a 90 degree angle to your palm, in an attempt to completely block off the opening in the bell.
Notation-wise, you will write the pitches exactly as you would for non-stopped notes. It's up to the player to think of the "transposition" of the note, with convention being fingering the note down a half step from what is written. So if you are wanting to hear a D, E, F, you would write D, E, F...not D#, E#, F# or Db, Eb, Fb.
In Noteworthy, for stopped horn parts, I usually just throw the "muted trumpet" patch in. It's not the perfect sound, but it gets the point across.
For double horns (F/Bb), it is generally discouraged to use the Bb side of the horn, as this may result in a 3/4 step transposition, which is difficult to get in tune. It is also difficult (but not impossible) to play stopped notes below middle C (one ledger below the treble clef). For notes in the lower register, most hornists prefer to use a stop mute for ease, such as this: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/brass-instruments/tom-crown-fh-french-horn-stop-mute.
With regards to other mutes for other brass, all mutes with the exception of the horn's stop mute are considered "non-transposing", meaning that you hear the same note with or without the mute in. The stop mute, just like hand stopping, brings the pitch up a half step.
Rick - why would I have ever looked at the "returns" page to find that 30 day letter policy? I downloaded my software and had no problems, therefore never thinking to go looking for a delayed shipment policy!
Bottom line - noteworthy needs to reconsider their policy on this, or make it a little easier to recover this number that I still have no idea what it is, despite giving them EVERY detail of every email they have sent me with the order and shipment information.
I don't. It's always a good idea to keep any difficult-to-recover data that you might need again, such as software registration codes, in an easily findable place. That seems self-evident to me. If I lose a registration code, I blame myself, not the software manufacturer.
OTOH, some other programs I have store inputted registration codes in an encrypted form on my computer. Updates only have to check to see if the code is present and valid, not ask for it to be inputted again. I'm not sure why this practice isn't more widespread, other than fear of hackers, which I suspect is overblown, except for high-profile software such as the Windows operating system itself.
I think you misunderstood my original post. I am unaware that I ever received a letter with a code on it for anything. My software is just fine, I only needed the code to upgrade my forum profile to full features. The forum admins went ahead and fixed it for me, but I am still unaware what the ID# is for my software as I never recall receiving any letter. I don't understand why this can't be done in the email receipts (which I still have all of). I also don't understand why none of the email receipts never stated that I should be expecting a letter with this ID and if I don't receive it in 30 days, that is my cutoff to ask for the letter to be resent. It's a really crummy policy, IMHO.
I've been using NWC as long as I can remember as a loyal paying customer. All of the purchases I have made have been downloads...and I don't recall getting a letter with the magical "authenticity ID#"...so I cannot upgrade my forum profile to have full features such as making attachments to posts.
The support email (support@noteworthysoftware.com) person (Beth) is giving me the runaround telling me it is impossible to give me this number. Anybody know how I can find this? I don't think I ever received the letter, but she tells me that I have to report that within 30 days of purchase...how was I supposed to know that? I assumed everything I needed was in the email receipts over the course of the years....
As much as I love the new upgrades, this lack of cooperation from support is really turning me off.
I'll take a look at that when I get home tonight. It looks a little different than what I remember seeing, but there may just be some reordering. Side note - where is the attachment option on this forum? Do I have to have so many posts before that feature is available?
I just upgraded my 2.5 to 2.51 and see many problems on the toolbars. Several buttons just show a "?" ERR instead of a command. I would attach a picture but I'm new to the forum and don't see a way to do that!
For example, on the "insert" toolbar, in order left to right Clef Selector, Key Signature Selector, Unknown Command, Insert Key Signature, etc. I suspect the missing tool here is Time Signature Selector.
There are three unknown commands before the crescendo and two after the decrescendo (labeled Item Selector 15-13). Then there are 4 more after the Note Spacer.
